Mind Yo' Manors
Clapham - March 2015
Almost* a year ago, we headed to The Dairy in Clapham for a meal that would become our first restaurant post. The general consensus of that trip could be summed up thusly; that was banging, yo.
Towards the end of 2014, at the other end of Clapham High Street, the team behind The Dairy opened up The Manor and it exploded like a 90s action movie… So clearly we needed to go see how it compared to one of my favourite London restaurants.
There’s a lot similar to The Dairy here; relaxed yet professional service, interesting stoneware plates, and a modern British menu focused on small(ish) plates of seasonal produce.
And the high standard of the food is similar too. There are magic moments of tastiness here.
A tangy fermented potato flatbread compliments the smooth freshness of a smoked aubergine & mint dip that is like a missing link between baba ganoush and tzatziki, and something I didn't know I'd been missing all my life.
Thick, fatty, chicken skins, more like pork scratchings, come accompanied by a snappy bbq sauce, and some fizzy kimchi.
The ox cheek (above hidden under veg) is a treat of tender, sticky, fatty meat that falls apart more easily than England’s batting order**, in a rich gravy that demands to be cleaned off the plate. So we do. With extra bread the gf has acquired to mop it all. Served with crunchy pickled squashes, to even out the richness.
Our dessert above is also strong. Dark chocolate and chilli mousse, brown butter ice cream to temper the heat, an orange sharp hit then more chocolate in a silky, rich ganache. It’s not Terry's, it's mine, and it's quickly gone.
But this is the thing I can’t get away from, it’s not as good as the meal we had at The Dairy. Perhaps unfair but each mouthful is judged by those elevated standards. Everything we had that evening was incredible, whereas here a lot of it is just good. Which totally qualifies for First World Problems. But it does take the shine off.
A bouche-amusing smear of butter on a rock with still-warm sourdough is a good way to kick things off, but it’s not as satisfying as the bone-marrow offering from down the road.
The kale and cavolo nero dish is all a little one-note and looks as if someone had sneezed on the plate before handing it to us. The hay smoked pigeon is mixed bag, dry breast but tasty leg.
To seafood, and as light and delicious as the crab is, nothing sings in this dish. The charred celeraic is cold and limp, whilst the buttermilk foam is too sweet for my tastes.
And one more thing – they're nuts about nuts. Scattered. From a height. On every dish. Nut allergies beware. I understand a desire to add texture to dishes but not in everything. Hazelnuts don't add anything to the crab and I’d have enjoyed the dishes as much, if not more, without them.
If that sounds overly negative, it shouldn't take away from the fact we enjoyed the Manor. The quality of cooking, the blood orange cocktail, all a sound addition to the Cl'am area. I’d recommend it. But I'd only go back if I couldn't get a table at The Dairy first…
Oh and one final thing: beetroot chantilly cream petit fours? No.
*give or take a few months...
**written before the 2015 Ashes
**written before the 2015 Ashes
